Once the boots on your ball joints tear, the wear to the ball joints will accelerate leading to costly suspension repairs. Tie rods can be inspected by twisting them with your hand, they should be fairly stiff with no looseness or slop. If the boots are torn but the ball joint is still nice and stiff, you should definitely replace the boot and regrease the joint. It's much easier and cheaper than having to replace the entire ball joint.
If you want to do this yourself, it's not particularly difficult, albeit a dirty job.
You'll need a ball joint separator tool
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/otc-6297_w.jpg![]()
This works better than a pickle fork, or using a hammer and a pry bar to break the taper between the ball joint and the upright.
You'll also need a small screw driver, or a set of needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin holding the ball joint castle nut. Some OEMs no longer use the castle nut and cotter pin, but instead use nylock nuts to secure the ball joint, just something to consider.
Ball joints have 2 ways of seating, some use a spring clip that you have to work on over the ball joint, until the clip seats in a groove. I've found that spreading the spring clip makes it easier to install if you don't have a dedicated tool.
The other way of seating is an internal clip, and to seat this type of boot, requires using a deep socket, or PVC pipe, or some other socket that can fit over the boot and clear the ball joint. Then you use books, or a piece of wood, or some make shift anvil, and with a hammer, drive the lip into place.
If your ball joints are too far gone, then you will have to replace the ball joint, this is more labor intensive and expensive. Some instances require you to purchase an entire new knuckle/upright/spindle. More commonly replacement ball joints that are built into the knuckle/upright/spindle will have a retaining snap ring to keep them from backing out. Most ball joints are made of hardened steel, and tend to be stronger than the spindle, meaning the bore in the spindle tends to distort every time you press in a new ball joint.
Adding to the pain of replacing ball joints is the fact that your alignment will likely be thrown off, since tie rods, and ball joints can and will affect your alignment.
It's much easier to be pro-active and inspect the boots from time to time to make sure they're not leaking grease or dry rotting. Staying on top of this will keep your suspension in good condition for years to come.
[ + ] bobdole9
[ - ] bobdole9 4 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 10:24:51 ago (+4/-0)
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 4 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 10:53:03 ago (+5/-1)
[ + ] Steelerfish
[ - ] Steelerfish 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 22:11:22 ago (+0/-0)
begmen to fix them…Bribe men to fix them….
Ftfy
[ + ] KeepPoal4fags
[ - ] KeepPoal4fags 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 22:57:16 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] HelpAcct123
[ - ] HelpAcct123 2 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 08:18:35 ago (+2/-0)
[ + ] AugustineOfHippo2
[ - ] AugustineOfHippo2 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 14:54:34 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] PostWallHelena
[ - ] PostWallHelena 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 15:32:07 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] Jiggggg
[ - ] Jiggggg 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 13:03:22 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] Rotteuxx
[ - ] Rotteuxx 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 12:29:19 ago (+1/-0)
I always give it 3 tack welds on the bottom for added safety... key word is tack, don't go cooking the grease ffs.
Also, buy ball joints with grease fittings or install some if you can't find any. Greasing from the bottom is the only way to ensure proper lubrication.
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 13:51:49 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] Rotteuxx
[ - ] Rotteuxx 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 14:33:03 ago (+1/-0)
The parts guy told me if I ever had a lifetime Moog to replace to just grind them clean and let the bottom rust evenly before returning.
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 15:10:42 ago (+1/-0)
The fix was adding marvel mystery oil to the cylinders about 3 or 4 times and then spraying Berryman chemtool down the turbo about 3 cans. Carboned up from being chronically under-loaded. Hit like a champ after that! Oem of course would recommend at minimum a cylinder head and at that many hours a rebuild about 27k hours ago lol.
[ + ] Rotteuxx
[ - ] Rotteuxx 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 18:53:52 ago (+1/-0)
Is that a solvent like SeaFoam?
Recently did an intake cleaning on my LQ9, the exhaust smoked white for a good 3 minutes. Cleaned the throttle body too, the butterfly was pitch black... fuck the fuel map relearn procedure though, that was a pia, lol.
All because the previous owner cruised around town in his SS to show it off instead of driving it for real, the poor thing was all cruded up & choking in carbon.
If only people understood this, they'd avoid a lot of issues. Drive them babies like you stole 'em once in a while.
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 22:45:56 ago (+1/-0)
Yes very similar stuff.
And yeah there's generally two types of sports car owners: those who NEVER drive them hard and those who just romp on them cold and destroy shit. Carboned up is a bit easier to fix though.
One of the reasons I switched to heavy duty. After the mid 2000s stuff just started becoming asinine levels of complicated. Too many regulations too fast during the Obama era and companies competing to see who could cram in more Chinese craptastic electronics.
Really don't think there will be too many retail automotive mechanics around in 10 years. Shops charge $140/hr to the customer yet pay technicians $30/hr but expect them to constantly put their personal time and energy into this continuing education and buying specialized tools.
In the future there will probably only be companies like tesla who's repair centers are basically parts cannons that charge you out the ass.
[ + ] Rotteuxx
[ - ] Rotteuxx 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 2, 2022 22:23:20 ago (+1/-0)
I think you're right, mechanics will be replaced by technicians with scan tools who don't know shit except what's displayed on the screen. It's already happening in retail garages like Canadian Tire (used to be a respectable franchise).
All this bullshit is why I want to learn everything I can from the old boys before they die off, I want that old school knowledge so I can charge a fortune for it in a few years when people regret modernism :)
Nah, I'm just obsessed with being a renaissance man that can fix anything.
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 2, 2022 22:45:24 ago (+0/-0)
What you said about technicians is already happening. Guys love to just slap on parts instead of checking things like relays, resistance, voltage drop etc. In those cases though the customer/management only approves so much diag time and they'd rather just sell a repair even if it's a BS one.
Don't regret one minute going to heavy duty. These machines last decades and there are tons of older models still around that aren't filed with garbage. Heavy duty customers want their shit fixed right the first time so it can get back to work.
Good goal indeed. This is what drove me to pursue wood working in my off time. Not a "wood artist" or even a cabinet maker but I can do framing, build shelves, construction type practical stuff. That's more along what interests me. Another goal is to get better at welding instead of just getting by with farmer stick weld repairs.
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 10:49:45 ago (+1/-0)
The main factor in this is that most new ball joints are sold slightly oversized with a knurled outside to garuntee fitment.
Good luck with that lol. Better to rent a ball joint press from the parts store. It's free. Piece of advice: don't bother cleaning the bore. There really is no benefit to doing that and if you go wire wheeling or sanding in there it can easily change the tolerance so the new part won't fit, and one must buy an oversized unit.
A lot of modern designs actually use ball joints that are bolted in rather than pressed and held with a retaining ring.
Also one thing not mentioned here was torque. If you're replacing these, it is absolutely vital to torque properly and under load. You can easily destroy the spindle by not doing this, and in heavy duty applications this can be a very very big deal. Use a floor jack to load up the knuckle and use a good torque wrench to secure the nut.
[ + ] usedoilanalysis
[ - ] usedoilanalysis [op] 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 11:25:37 ago (+0/-0)
I wouldn't install a boot with one.
Good call.
You want to pre-load the suspension, by raising the lower control arm with a jack until the car just comes off the jack stand. Then you tighten everything to spec. This way all the bushings and ball joints are clocked to the suspension as if it were sitting on the ground.
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 13:48:56 ago (+1/-0)
I suppose not! Usually for liability reasons I don't (or rather didn't) re-boot ball joints but have done it on my own stuff before. If it has zerks usually just grease it a little more often TBH
I usually just put it under the knuckle itself when possible cause that's where the actual wheel will be.
[ + ] Deleted
[ - ] deleted 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 08:23:56 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] bobdole9
[ - ] bobdole9 1 point 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 10:25:47 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] Deleted
[ - ] deleted 2 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 10:27:24 ago (+2/-0)
[ + ] NedsHead
[ - ] NedsHead 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 22:44:47 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] Laputois
[ - ] Laputois 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 18:45:37 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] usedoilanalysis
[ - ] usedoilanalysis [op] 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 2, 2022 06:10:35 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] I_am_baal
[ - ] I_am_baal 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 17:11:12 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] TheBigGuyFromQueens
[ - ] TheBigGuyFromQueens 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 16:15:10 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] jsac
[ - ] jsac 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 14:52:31 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] usedoilanalysis
[ - ] usedoilanalysis [op] 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 15:05:43 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] jsac
[ - ] jsac 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 15:36:20 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] usedoilanalysis
[ - ] usedoilanalysis [op] 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 20:30:35 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] usedoilanalysis
[ - ] usedoilanalysis [op] 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 21:32:45 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 15:40:15 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] jsac
[ - ] jsac 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 15:56:55 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 17:00:26 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] jsac
[ - ] jsac 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 2, 2022 04:13:01 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 2, 2022 09:27:54 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] PotatoWhisperer
[ - ] PotatoWhisperer 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 2, 2022 22:44:43 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 2, 2022 22:48:29 ago (+0/-0)
What I recommend is finding a specialty shop for your specific make and model. Independent. They'll usually have guys who are the cream of the crop of former dealer guys and really know what they're doing. Even though I'm a competent trained mechanic, if there's something complicated like a timing belt on an interference engine then I have no problem sending my car to someone like that
[ + ] boomerkiller
[ - ] boomerkiller 0 points 2.5 yearsNov 1, 2022 14:32:57 ago (+0/-0)