I'm looking for a small compact electric wrench that can get into tight spaces. Would I be better off with a right angle impact, an electric ratchet, a stubby 3/8ths, or a 1/4" impact driver? I have a mid and a high torque for transmission, suspension and subframe work, but don't like using that for front end stuff, or brakes because 1 they don't fit, or 2 those small bolts will get snapped at the head from the big boy torque.
In the beginning, Korean cars were ugly junk. Now their cars are reliable and well designed like European and Japanese. My Hyundai has almost 100.000 Km and it's still like new. Nothing bad ever happened.
The Chinese are not like Koreans. New Chinese cars have good design now, but unlike Koreans, they are using Japanese engines and other parts to be reliable.
If you are poor, you can easily buy Chinese cars now, but they are still made from Japanese parts.
But Koreans managed to achieve real European and Japanese quality. When I was choosing between European and Japanese as usual, they were all with the absurd 3 cylinder junk engines. The only car with a normal 4 cylinder engine I was able to find was a Korean Hyndai.
Never put a cardboard box on your car. Cardboard will scratch the fuck out of your clear coat, unless you want to ruin your car's paint never put a cardboard box on your trunk or hood, and if you do and move it around, when you ruin your paint, I want you to think about this post.
Anti-Ackerman steering means the outside wheel while a car is cornering toes in, or turns in, more than the inside wheel does. This means that you are inducing more slip angle on the more heavily loaded wheel, which naturally should have more grip. Toe in however is detrimental to the underfloor aerodynamics of a car. When you steer a car, the inside wheel toes out, and the inside wheel toes in. Toe out while being more beneficial for aero, is worse in a dynamic sense, in terms of steering feel, and stability.
If you run positive Ackerman, the outside wheel does't toe in as much as the inside wheel toes out. However if the outside wheel has less toe in, and by extension less slip angle, you will get less steering force from the outside tire, meaning more steering lock will be required. This is of course assuming the rear doesn't move during its travel. If it does move, and it most certainly does, then the rear has it's own toe curve during suspension displacement. This can be adjusted with suspension geometry, allowing more toe out during suspension compression and or extension for instance.
This would force more car rotation, and would allow one to run positive Ackerman in the front while maintaining favorable conditions for the underfloor aerodynamics under yaw. Running a negatively biased toe curve in either direction(compression/extension) in the rear would improve aerodynamics, and would counter any understeer induced by running positive Ackerman in the front.
The problem with this kind of suspension setup is of course that it's difficult to control because although the rear will rotate, it can rotate too much, and become snappy. So the mechanical instability has to be tempered with aerodynamic stability, this means a slightly rearward center of pressure, that is the bulk of the aerodynamic loads happening behind the center of gravity. If this is not possible, if at least COP can be maintained near the neutral COG, not all hope is lost, because under braking the COG would naturally move forward, while the COP would not drift as much, this would improve aerodynamic stability under braking. It would however work in the opposite direction under acceleration, as the COG would drift behind the center of pressure, and create an oversteer condition.
Tuning then becomes a game of inducing the right amount of toe out in the rear, to work with the aero, and the understeer tendency of having positive Ackerman steering in the front.
The benefit of running positive Ackerman in the front is that the outer wheel would toe out more, and would benefit aero performance at the front, especially under yaw.
The tranny is slipping a little when the car is cold but seems to go away after the car warms up a bit. 140k miles, generic model sedan, 2012, automatic transmission. I am working on adding some Lucas. Is this a huge deal and time for a rebuild or something that can wait 10k miles? Getting to the point where adding a new tranny might not be worth the 4k.
